Boston, The Human Race

I woke up today to the news of bombings at the Boston Marathon.  My thoughts immediately went to my runner friends and whether they might have been there.  I checked Facebook, and was relieved that none of them were there.  My next thought, was "Why there?"  I know this tends to be everyone's first reaction, but really, why there?  I continued to search the Internet for information on the bombings.  I had so many thoughts running through my mind.  Very sad and overwhelming.  So I went for a run.

I thought about Boston the entire way.  About half way through my run, it came to me.  There are arguably few places or events in the US that show the American spirit more than road races.  Runners are a unique bunch.  If you have ever participated in a running event, or even been a spectator, you are sure to get caught up in the energy.  You will see people of every age, size, shape and color all running together as one.  You may even see Elvis and the Easter bunny, and if you are lucky, you'll beat them!  You will see countless fans cheering you on as if you were an olympian.  Fellow runners spew out breathless, encouraging words to one another in passing.  Hundreds of volunteers come out to give water to sweaty, smelly runners and then rake up the discarded cups.  Little kids stand on the sidelines with their hands out to collect as many "high fives" as they can.  Everyone, working, running and cheering together to the finish line.  Then there is the party at the end.  The party like no other.  Fellow runners congratulate each other over free bananas, oranges, junk food and beer, chatting excitedly as their "runner's high" takes full effect.

Then there is Boston, the "Grand-Daddy" of them all.  The best of the best.  The elusive race many a runner has strived for.  One of our oldest races in one of our oldest cities.  The bomber likely considered this.  I feel confident in the fact that whoever is behind this will likely be caught and punished.  I am even more confident that this does not crush our spirit.  The race will go on.  We will continue along the course, cheering each other on to the finish.  I believe there is more goodness and kindness than evil in the human race.

Sprint to the Last!

Shhh...The Real Last Supper!

Warning! The following is the good, the bad and the ugly of travel abroad in fine detail. Travel is awesome! It is an experience to be had.  Some of the most unforgettable experiences are the mistakes that are made along the way...

We arrived in Italy from Finland at 10:30 pm on a Saturday night.  It was snowing and the ground was covered with snow.  Our excitement sank a little, we just left 2 ft of snow and frigid temps!!!  We were looking for warmth and sun!  Our kind innkeeper met us at the airport at this late hour, and drove us to lovely Bergamo where we would call home for the next 10 hours.  After a good night's sleep, Maurizio cooked us breakfast and we then walked 15 minutes to the train station and were headed for Milan.  I bought our train tickets from the machine.  We forgot to validate them before the train departed (steep fine possible) so we immediately told the conductor and he hand validated it without remark.  Upon arrival in Milan, we immediately hunted for deposito bagagli (luggage storage) since we were only breezing through Milan for a few hours.  I didn't see it so I went to the ticket office to ask.  She informed me it was by toilets by the newsstand...and that was exactly where it was...in the bathroom. There was a man who did not speak any English sitting at a table in the bathroom with basically a hand written deposito bagagli sign.  After we removed the iPads as a precaution, we turned over our bags.  We had one large rolling duffle and 3 backpacks.  He asked us to write our name and the time we would return.  He then informed us it would be 35e for 3 hrs!!! We expressed this was too high. He agreed to charge us 21 euros which we agreed to, and prepaid. 

We then went upstairs to the main level to figure out our train to Florence for that afternoon.  We found the touchscreen super easy to use.  It was when we went back downstairs to the metro, that things began to fall apart.  We couldn't figure out how to use the machines for the metro tickets so we gave up and bought them from the tobacco shop for 50 cents more per ticket.  This is where I made a mistake.  We easily bought our tickets but what we should have done was buy our return tickets as well. This would have saved us a tremendous amount of trouble!!!  Our main reason for visiting Milan, was to view Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper".  Tickets for this often sell out months in advance.  Of course, when we needed to take the tram to see the painting, we were in a hurry and there was no tobacco shop or ticket machine in sight.  When the tram came, Mike and the kids got in at the back. Me, being the honest person, went to the front hoping I could buy tickets from the driver.  Nope!  To make a long story short, Mike and the kids went merrily and illegally in the tram, while I sprinted a mile with a 15 pound backpack, in boots, in heavy wet snow, to the church.  I made it with about 5 minutes to spare.  If I was not a runner, I would have never made it in time.  Mike was impressed with my split.  I was breathless, soaking wet, and looking a bit crazy to put it mildly.  You may wonder why I just didn't take a cab.  Along the way, I tried to hale several cabs to no avail.  Moving forward, we enjoyed our allotted 15 minute viewing.  It was definitely an experience we will never forget!  I sat and listened to the audio guide and let my heart rate settle to a non lethal level...just to prepare for the next race. 

We thought the luggage storage closed at 2:30.  It was a tight connection but shouldn't be a problem as long as you don't get lost in the metro system maze.  Oh, but get lost we did!  In a panic, we raced like our lives depended on it, to the toilets to get our luggage.  If you think this situation stinks, you are right.  When we arrived at 2:45, we found our same Italian friend there still checking in more luggage.  It didn't close at 2:30-I guess I misinterpreted the sign, so our race and panic was for nothing!  To our relief, we were happily reunited with our luggage, laptop and all.  Now that was an exercise in good faith to say the least!

We then went upstairs to the main floor to buy our train tickets to Florence.  I opted to buy them from the ticket window instead of the machine just because there was no line. With my best Italian, straight from my open guidebook, I purchased our tickets for Florence for 130 euros, from the non English speaking nice man at the ticket desk.  This is where it helps to have previously researched your train options.  Knowing the departure/arrival times, the price, and any applicable discounts, which all can be found online, will help you make a wise choice if you opt to wait to buy your tickets at the station.  If we would have bought the ticket a month or more in advance online, I could have easily paid less than 100.  Spontaneity has its price!

An uneventful 2 hr train ride later, we arrived in Florence's Santa Maria Novella train station, notorious for expert pickpockets.  We tried our best to blend in with our tennis shoes, 5 bags, and maps in hand.  We easily walked the 10 minutes (which included one "recalculation" to our awesome hotel.  Firenze Number Nine.  After our rough day, we found our bliss.  It was a long day of wrong turns, missed trams, heavy snow, and sprinting a mile in boots, but we family made it to our little piece of heaven as the fresco on our ceiling depicted.  We kicked off our wet shoes, peeled off our soggy socks, and jumped into (while the kid jumped on) our comfy beds and switched on the TV.  We were delighted to find a channel dedicated to 80's rock.  I'm talking Friday Night Videos good!  Only a child of the 80's could truly appreciate this, as our kids reminded us.

After our 20 minute reprieve in heaven, we thought we should go out for dinner being that we hadn't had a real meal in over 24 hours (no, I don't count my 800 calorie hot chocolate fondant drink a meal). We consulted Rick (Rick Steve's) and mapped out our plan.  Rick's recommended restaurant Lo Stracotto, was literally just steps outside our hotel door.  Imagine our surprise, we were planning on making our usual 2-3 detours.  We plopped ourselves down in the deserted restaurant.  Deserted because most Italians don't even think of eating out until after 8 pm.  We were the early birds at 6:30.  Our experience began generically with a somewhat indifferent waiter.  We have become accustomed to this.  European waiters don't usually approach your table with the same enthusiasm one may experience at Applebee's or the like.  We ordered our wine and appetizers. We had salami, marinated artichokes, buffalo mozzarella and prosciutto.  Mike then had a thick bowl of vegetable bread soup, delicious!  For dinner, the kids had spaghetti, I had gnocchi, and Mike had pepper steak. Our food was all very good! We savored our meal and wine while the kids entertained themselves with drawing on their placemat. When you travel with kids, ALWAYS pack coloring and drawing materials. Our indifferent waiter returned and presented my daughter with a folded piece of paper. When she opened it, there was a sketch of a cat, similar to the one she had drawn. The kids were thrilled!  

We decided to order dessert.  Mike and Lane ordered chocolate soufflé, Alayna creme brûlée, and tiramisu for me. They were all delicious!(Carly's creme brûlée is still better).  After dessert, the waiter returned with another drawing.  This time, Batman, as my son had been drawing.  He was so excited! With the drawing duel on, we ordered more wine and enjoyed la dolce vita!

This is why we love to travel.  It is full of surprises, not all of them pleasant, but it is a chance to learn. It can be challenging and exciting to be way outside your comfort zone.  We our trying to expand our comfort zone one, or three mistakes at a time. 

A Little France in Finland

For a little twist on the usual company Christmas party, we turned our home into a French bistro.  We seized the unique opportunity to have a French chef prepare a holiday dinner in Finland.  So what does one feast upon in Finland at Christmas time?  Why, reindeer, of course! Reindeer is a common dish in Finland.  Reindeer are raised like cattle in the Lapland-an area in Northern Finland.  It was quite good, the taste and texture is similar to beef tenderloin.  Everything was perfect, including the chef's french accent.  Everyone agreed, the food was amazing and the company superb!

Mike & I with Chef Jean-Marc

To Russia for Lunch

On Monday, I had the unique experience to go to Russia for a little shopping and lunch with some wonderful ladies.  Never, did I ever imagine I would go over to Russia just for lunch.  That was before I moved within 10 miles of the Russian border.  The town we visited in Russia, Vyborg, actually was part of Finland, but was lost in war to what was the U.S.S.R.  I may have mentioned this before, in the winter of 1939/1940, Finland and Russia fought the Winter War.  The respectively tiny Finnish army effectively held off the Russians.  They lost land, but were able to maintain their freedom.  Fire and Ice is an interesting movie about the Winter War.  If you are interested in WWII history, or even if you are not, it is definitely worth your time.

Vyborg is less than 50 miles away from where we live in Finland, but it took us over two hours to get there.  To go into Russia, we have to clear Finnish and Russian customs and then a couple Russian checkpoints along the way.  It can be a little nerve wracking crossing the border.  The always serious Russians even have those fur hats on!

Round Tower (ca. 1500)
This is the building where we had lunch.

My yummy salad!

Broscht
Delicious! And I didn't even think I liked beets.

The ladies at lunch.
Eating here, like our trip to Vyborg, was a trip back in time.

 Life is an adventure full of twists and turns.  There are adventures to be had that you can't even imagine for yourself, made all better when you encounter great friends along the way.

Getting Our Money's Worth in Oslo

I wasn't sure of what to expect from Oslo during its dark, cold and rainy season.  Rick Steves' description of Oslo as the "smallest and least earthshaking of the Scandinavian capitals" made me a little nervous.  The fact that Norway is one of Europe's most expensive destinations had me apprehensive as well.  Paying for tap water and more for a burger than you normally would for a nice steak, can be a little aggravating.  All that aside, Norway was a pleasant surprise that showed us that sometimes good things come in small packages.  Before we even bid Norway "farvel", we were already excitedly planning a return trip.  

So how do you get your money's worth in one of Europe's most expensive cities?  First of all, we loved our hotel, The Clarion Royal Christiana.   Finding the right accommodation can be priceless, especially when you are traveling with children.  First of all,  location is key.  We stayed next to the train station and in the heart of Oslo.  Oslo's efficient public transportation was literally at our doorstep.  My kids also loved the indoor pool which is a rare treat for them.

My first stop in Oslo was the tourist information office.  Most major European cities have one.  There I purchased the Oslo Pass.  This handy card gave us unlimited use of public transportation and free admission to museums.  Major cities all have a pass similar to this one, but this is the first time I have actually bought one.  You have to do your math and figure how many places you will visit and then determine if there is a savings in buying it.  We definitely got our money's worth out of this card.  I  can not praise Oslo enough for its EXCELLENT museums and public transportation.  We effortlessly breezed through 5 great museums in about as many hours.  I have learned there is something to be desired in a small and thoughtful museum.  The human brain best digests information in small chunks.  So, although a museum like the Louvre is massive, your brain can really only digest a room or two before you are overwhelmed.  Believe it or not, my kids did not complain one time of being bored, and like I said, we went to 5 museums back to back and three on the following day.  Every single one of these museums was worthwhile.  Had I not bought the Oslo Pass, we would not have gone to as many and we would have missed out on a unique learning experience.  (It was also nice to pay the fee up front and not feel the constant strain on the wallet to remind you how much you are spending.)

To give you a peek into what a trip to Oslo might be like for you, I thought I would list the sights and what we liked most about each.

Fram Museum: We loved the simulated polar boat experience.

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Kon Tiki:  Fun museum!  Unbelievable this "paper" boat sailed across the Pacific Ocean.  The Easter Island exhibit and statues were pretty cool too!

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Viking Ship Museum:  A pint-size Viking adventure!  Although this museum was much smaller than we thought it would be, it was still great fun to see these infamous ships and the loot!

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Pictures of three patriots who resisted the Nazis and were executed right outside The Norwegian Resistance Museum by a Nazi firing squad.

Not sure, but I think this represents how Norway was broken during its Nazi occupation.  In visiting these museums, I got the distinct sense that most Norwegians are very contrite about their involvement with the Nazis and are sincere when they say
 "Never Again" 

Norwegian Holocaust Center & Norwegian Resistance Museum:  These are actually two different museums located entirely across town from one another.  Norway has a fascinating history when it comes to WWII.  Exhibits show how racism and the rise of anti-Semitism led to 760 Norwegian Jews being willingly surrendered to and subsequently murdered by the Nazis.  It is inspiring to learn of the patriots who resisted the Nazis and made the ultimate sacrifice themselves for the liberties of others.

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Stave Church
Unfortunately, in the off season, renovations are common.  Hey, it is either strangers in your pictures or stray scaffolding. 

Interior of the stave church.
This picture doesn't do it justice, but picture peeking into a small window in the door (see picture above).  The only light is from the two candles on the altar, much like it must have been in the 13th century when it was built.  Having a tranquil peek, made it more mystical, and is an image I won't soon forget.

Norwegian Folk Museum:  This is an open air museum where historic buildings from around Norway were transplanted.  So rather than driving around the country to see these buildings, the building come to you in the center of Oslo!  Although it was off season, we enjoyed having the run of the place.

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The Ski Simulator was a thrill!

Holmenkollen Ski Jump
Yep, it's really high! 

Holmenkollen Museum and Ski Jump:  We thoroughly enjoyed the 40 minute train ride into the Norwegian countryside to this museum and ski jump.  The Ski Simulator was a real thrill too!

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Frogner Park:  This park, in the center of Oslo, had a great vibe.  I don't know if it was just us, but we couldn't help but snicker at all that naked humanity.  Your time in Oslo wouldn't be complete without a frolic through this eccentric park featuring the life work of Norway's famed sculptor, Gustav Vigeland.

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"The Scream"
Edvard Munch

The National Gallery:  This art museum is a joy, even if you are not an art aficionado.  It was so impressive to see Picasso, Manet, Monet, Van Gogh and many more packed tidily into this bite size and easy to digest museum.  Although I knew of "The Scream", I did not know the artist, Norwegian painter, Edvard Munch.  "The Scream" is his most recognizable, but his other works were thought provoking and interesting to see.

So, as you can see, we packed a lot of sight-seeing into two days.  Although, a trip to Norway is not a budget trip, in the two full days we were there, we felt we got our money's worth.  There are enough value packed sights in Norway that I don't think you will be crying into your $15 beer!  We want to return in the spring for the famed Norway in a Nutshell tour.  Stay posted...

Ten Minutes in The Golden City of a Hundred Spires!

Charle's Bridge

Prague is one amazing city with more "Wow!" per square inch, than any city we have visited to date.  Everywhere you look, there is something amazing to see and a piece of history to discover.  

What better way to feel a part of history than to stay at a 17th Century Bed & Breakfast.  Dům u velké boty  is a small, family run hotel.  It is situated in a quiet square directly across from the German Embassy and steps from the US Embassy.  From our hotel, a ten minute walk in any direction, was history packed and full of beautiful sights.

A ten minute walk downhill and around the corner sits:  The Church of Our Lady Victorious, where the miraculous Infant Jesus of Prague welcomes pilgrims from around the world.  

Another ten minute walk brought us to Wallenstein Palace Garden.  This is a peaceful (until my kids arrived) garden hidden in the Little Quarter.  Unless you were looking for it, you would walk right past its inconspicuous entrance.  The kids were enchanted with this albino peacock.  He seemed to know the drill too!

The kids pose for a picture on the walk up to the castle.

A ten minute walk uphill brought us to one of Prague's most recognizable sites, Prague Castle.

The main castle entrance.

View from the castle grounds

A view from steps leading down from the castle to the Little Quarter

A view of St. Vitus Cathedral by day

St. Vitus Cathedral by night

We arrived at the castle late in the day to avoid the massive crowds.  This late in the day, paying the $25 for a family admission didn't seem worth the expense.  After 6pm, one can stroll through the castle grounds and enjoy few to no crowds.  Here is the cheapskates view of the impossibly cute  "Golden Lane".   Previously, these houses were the servants quarters.  Today, they are gift shops.

Here I am with a glass of hot wine called Mead.  This charming Medieval restaurant was along the walk to the castle.

Oh! And here we are with some famous Czech beer.  It is touted as some of the best beer in the world.  (I still prefer German and Belgium beer)

Charles Bridge

Charles Bridge is the always crowded and festive bridge that crosses Vltava river and connects the Little Quarter to Old Town.  The bridge is crowded with tourists, vendors and musicians during the day.

These were just a few of the sites that were within a 10 minute walk from our hotel.  However, don't let the ten minutes mislead you.  We did a lot of walking.  Anyone who has ever traveled with us knows that I am not exaggerating.  Prague is best visited by foot and I am sure we put on no less than 6 miles a day!!!

Just beyond Charles' Bridge, lies Old Town Square, where one is surrounded by awesome sights and history in every direction.

Astronomical Clock

The Astromical clock was installed on the Old Town Hall in the 15th Century and is the oldest working astronomical clock in the world.

Jan Hus Memorial commemorates the Czech's long hard struggle for freedom

Tyn Church

Beyond Old Town Square, lies Wencheschlaus Square.  We treated ourselves to some traditional Czech sausage, hot wine and potato chips on a sword...I mean skewer.

The Jewish Quarter, or Josefov, provides a fascinating glimpse of Jewish history.  The cemetery, the Pinkas Synagogue and the Spanish Synagogue were among the most memorable exhibits that comprise the Jewish Museum of Prague.  The Pinkas Synagogue has a particularly moving display of artwork from the children of Terezin.  Terezin was a "model" concentration camp located outside the city of Prague.  The Nazis "allowed" the prisoners some creative expression in the form of drawings, music and plays.  The artwork displayed was created from smuggled scraps from the Jewish draftsmen and artists who were forced to draw the infrastructure of their own prison camp.  Of the 15,000 children who passed through Terezin, only 132 were known to survive.  This artwork is all that remains of their memory.

Below, is a picture of the Old Jewish cemetery.  This was the only place Jews were allowed to be buried in Prague from the 15th through 18th century.  It is thought there are some 10,000 graves here, 6-7 deep.

Petrin Hill and Tower

A steep uphill walk brings you to Petrin Hill.  The funicular was out of service, but that didn't stop us from making the trek.  Once at the top of the hill, a quick walk through the mirror maze was good for a few laughs before hiking up another 400 stairs to the top of Petrin Tower.

There you have it, our three days in Prague...the condensed version.  Prague is a city full of wonder, full of beauty, full of history and full of tourists.  It is a city so uniquely Prague.  It is no wonder why it is so popular.  With so much to see and do, a trip to Prague will surely not disappoint.